Phytoconstituents, mechanisms and delivery systems in polyherbal formulations for anti-aging skincare

Published 02 February, 2026

Skin aging is a complicated process affected by extrinsic factors such as ultraviolet (UV) radiation and environmental pollutants, in addition to intrinsic factors such as oxidative stress and cellular senescence. These factors initiate inflammation, collagen breakdown, and visible signs of aging. In a new review in the Journal of Dermatologic Science and Cosmetic Technology, a team of researchers in India highlighted the opportunity to combine some of the most sophisticated dermal delivery methods with traditional ethnobotanical knowledge to increase bioavailability and efficacy of herbal actives.

The authors included an explanation of the complex biology of skin aging, which results from the interactions of intrinsic factors such as genetic programming, cellular senescence, oxidative stress, and extrinsic factors including UV radiation and pollution. These elements collectively trigger inflammation, generate reactive oxygen species (ROS), and break down crucial extracellular matrix (ECM) components like collagen and elastin, leading to wrinkles, sagging, and loss of elasticity.

Notably, single-ingredient approaches are often insufficient for this multifactorial process. Polyherbal formulations, which combine multiple plant extracts, offer a synergistic advantage. They enable multi-targeted intervention across the interconnected pathways of aging, potentially enhancing efficacy while reducing the toxicity risks associated with high doses of single compounds.

The review features seven key anti-aging plants: Curcuma longa (turmeric), Curcuma aromatica, Glycyrrhiza glabra (licorice), Calendula officinalis, Boehavia diffusa, Withania somnifera (ashwagandha), and Matricaria chamomilla (chamomile). It discusses their specific bioactive phytoconstituents—such as curcumin, glabridin, withanolides, and apigenin—and their mechanistic roles. These activities include potent antioxidant action to neutralize ROS, anti-inflammatory effects, inhibition of matrix metalloproteinases (MMPs) that degrade collagen, stimulation of collagen synthesis, and improvement of skin barrier function and hydration.

In conclusion, the review synthesizes traditional ethnobotanical knowledge with modern cosmetic science. It argues that strategically designed polyherbal formulations, especially when paired with advanced delivery platforms, represent a powerful, sustainable, and holistic alternative to synthetic anti-aging agents. By simultaneously targeting multiple causes of aging, these formulations offer a comprehensive and scientifically grounded approach for effective skin rejuvenation and the development of next-generation cosmeceuticals.

Fig. 1. Factors Involved in the Mechanism of Aging

Fig. 2. Synergistic Actions of Polyherbal Formulations in Skin Anti-Aging, A study conducted by Damle and Mallya (2015) examined the potential for synergistic anti-aging effects of a polyherbal preparation that included extracts from Glycyrrhiza glabra (liquorice) and Citrus aurantium (orange peel). Because of their high total phenolic content (TPC) and total flavonoid content (TFC), their study revealed that both extracts alone have strong antioxidant activity. Interestingly, the formulation showed the maximum TPC (530.00 ± 1.56 mg GAE/g), TFC (246.25 ± 1.03 mg RUE/g), and increased radical scavenging activity (DPPH 87.99 ± 0.64 %; H₂O₂ 72.47 ± 0.86 %) when mixed in a 1:2 ratio (orange peel: liquorice), confirming synergistic enhancement. A phytophospholipid complex containing the optimal combination greatly enhanced the preservation of polyphenols in the skin and maintained their antioxidant activity. The created cream also showed strong anti-elastase activity (28.02 ± 0.95 % at 3000 μg/ml), demonstrating the formulation's ability to fight skin aging. According to the authors, this polyherbal phospholipid complex provides a strong anti-aging cosmeceutical system that is stable and non-irritating.

Contact author:

Gulshan Rathore

Corresponding author.

gulshan.pharmacy@tmu.ac.in

Teerthanker Mahaveer College of Pharmacy, Teerthanker Mahaveer University, Moradabad 244102, India

Conflict of interest:

The author declares that there is no conflict of interest regarding the publication of this paper.

See the article: https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jdsct.2025.100126

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